Formulation and Evaluation of Conditioning Herbal Shampoo

Laxman S. Vijapur, Anita R. Desai*, Gajanand G. Satbhai, Supriya P. Suragond,

Bhagyashree V S, Farha Hassan

Department of Pharmaceutics, BVVS Hanagal Shri Kumareshwar College of Pharmacy, Bagalkot, Karnataka.

*Corresponding Author E-mail: anitardesai@gmail.com

ABSTRACT:

The study aimed to formulate a herbal shampoo and evaluate its physicochemical properties. The herbal shampoo was formulated by adding the extracts of amla, bhringraj, curry leaves, reetha and shikakaiin different proportions to water, methyl paraben was added and completely dissolved. To this 2% of carbopol-934 was added to form a gel. All extracts were weighed and dissolved to form a homogenous solution, lemon juice and citric acid was stirred properly with it. The evaluation parameters such as visual inspection, foaming ability, foaming stability, pH, dirt dispersion, measurement of surface tension, rheological evaluation and percentage of solid contents were performed to determine the physicochemical properties of formulated herbal shampoo. The formulated herbal shampoo was also evaluated for conditioning performance by administering a blind test to 30 student volunteers. It showed low surface tension, good foam stability after 5 min. The results indicated that the formulated shampoo was observed to be suitable for use and safe.

KEYWORDS: Herbal shampoo, Maceration, Formulation, Evaluation.

1. INTRODUCTION:

Shampoos are most commonly used as beautifying agents, and are a viscous detergent solution that includes appropriate preservatives and active ingredients¹. These are probably a hair care product designed to clean the scalp skin along with its hairs. The term shampoo entered the English language through India, where the Hindi word “champoo” was used meaning to press or massage; it was used to denote cleaning through massage of the hair and skin. As far back as ancient time, people use natural extracts and resources for health care and cosmetic purposes².

Now-a-days, consumers demand for natural ingredients and additives especially in cosmetic products, as a replacement of synthetic compounds, having possible negative effects on health and the environment, is tremendously increased³. The development of products mainly to skin care, several cosmetic industries are focusing on hair care, with the production of safety products are paying attention to their action. For example, in recent literature the ethnicity appears as an important key factor to take into account in the clinical observation, management, and treatment of skin and hair disorders². Earlier, ordinary soap had been used for washing hair. During the early stages of shampoo, English hair stylists boiled soap in water and added herbs to give the hair shine and fragrance⁴.

The hair care products having the main need to act for cleaning the scalp and hair, have brought to wide-ranging types of shampoos. Among them more recently, powder shampoos and solid shampoos as alternatives to the traditional ones, have appeared with very interesting advantages. For example, in traditional shampoos for a long time, Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS) was used as a traditional surfactant and now it has been rapidly replaced by herbs, flours, and washing clays from the mineral world. Cosmetic research for hair care has been focused on the development of solid shampoos from natural ingredients. The various advantages of solid shampoos in comparison with the traditional ones, it should be considered. For example, a longer life time and the property of being a handy product, so easy to transport. This indicates that the associated costs, especially those related to the packaging, are lowered in accordance with the market and consumer’s requests². Selection of active natural ingredients for the formulation of the herbal hair care product is depends upon the ability of the ingredient to prevent scalp damage also on the improvement in the quality of skin by cleansing and nourishing action of natural ingredient⁵.

2. MATERIALS AND METHODS:

2.1 Sample collection:

All plant extracts Amla powder, Bhringraj powder from (Pharmacy of BVVS ayurved college, Bagalkote) Shikakai powder and Reetha powder from (Swarnakshree herbal products), Curry leaves (Local vegetable market Bagalkote) were obtained. Methyl paraben, Carbopol-934, Heating mantle (U Tech, India), Brookfield viscometer (Brook viscometer LVDV-E), pH meter (Hanna Romania), Hot air oven (Oswold).

2.2 Preparation of plant extracts:

Five clean and dry conical flask were taken and 20 gms of amla, bhringaraj, reetha, shikakai, curry leaves powder were weighed and placed, in each conical flask to this 100ml of water was added and covered with aluminium foil, then flask were placed in cool and dark place for one day. After 24hrs these were heated and boiled for 15-20mins on a heating mantle, then filtered using muslin cloth and filter paper. These filtrates were poured in different petri dish and placed in hot air oven at 50ºC, till all the moisture was removed and the powdered extract was obtained⁶.

Table 1. Ingredients used in formulation⁷

Ingredients	Biological Source	Role
	Amla: Dried as well as fresh fruits of plant Emblica Offinalis Gaerth. Family - Phyllanhatceae.	i) Enhance hair colour ii) Healthy shine
	Bhringraj: This is obtained from leaves of Eclipta Prostrata. Family-Asteraceae.	i) Promote hair growth ii) Strengthen hair
	Reetha: It consists dried shell from Sapindus mukorossi tree. Family–Sapindaceae.	i) Helps control dandruff ii) Promote hair growth
	Shikakai: It consists the fruits of the plant Acacia concinna Linn. Family-Fabaceae.	i) Good Cleanser ii) Anti-Dandruff
	Curry leaves: Fresh leaves of Murraya koenigii, Family–Rutaceae	i) Used for Hair growth ii) Rich in anti-oxidants and proteins

2.3 Formulation of herbal shampoo:

Three cleaned beakers were taken and labeled as F₁, F₂, F₃ to this 50gm of water was added and 0.4gms of methyl paraben was dissolved completely in it. Then 2% of carbopol-934 was added as a gelling agent and kept aside for 3 hours till the gel was formed. All the extract (i.e; amla, bhringaraj, shikakai, curry leaves and reetha) were weighed and added according to below table no. 2 of formulation for 50gms of preparation. This preparation was stirred properly to form a homogenous solution, lemon juice and citric acid was added. These 3 formulations (i.e. F₁, F₂ and F₃) were stored and packed in different containers respectively⁶.

Table 2. Three formulas of shampoo were prepared as shown in table

Ingredients for 100 grams	Weight in grams
	F1	F2	F3
Amla	2.5	-	2.5
Bhringraj	-	2.5	2.5
Reetha	5	5	5
Shikakai	-	2.5	2.5
Curry leaves	2.5	-	2.5
Lemon juice	1	1	1
Methylparaben	0.8	0.8	0.8
Citric acid	q.s	q.s	q.s
2% Carbopol-934	q.s	q.s	q.s

2.4 Evaluation of formulated herbal shampoo:

2.4.1 Physical appearance:

As any other herbal cosmetic products, the attractiveness of shampoos for consumers tends to be judged visually, thus having good physical appearance is important^8,9.

2.4.2 Foaming ability and foaming stability:

The cylinder shake method is the most widely used method for determining foaming ability. At room temperature, 1% of 50ml of the shampoo solution was filled into a 250ml graduated cylinder, which was then covered by hand and shaken ten times. The total volume of the foam content after 60 sec of shaking was recorded. The height of the foam generated was measured immediately. To evaluate foam stability, the same procedure was performed and the foam volume after 20 min was measured^6,10.

2.4.3 pH:

The pH levels of the different shampoos tested in 1% and 10% solutions were evaluated using a pH meter at a room temperature of 25±2°C. Most shampoos were neutral or slightly acidic. Acidic solutions cause the cuticle (outer layer) of the hair to shrink and lie flatter on the hair shaft. Basic solutions cause the cuticle to swell and open up. Acidic solutions make the hair smoother, while basic solutions make the hair frizzier^11,12.

2.4.4 Dirt dispersion:

A one percentage (1%) solution of each shampoo (1g of sample in 100ml of water) was taken and one drop of India ink was added; the test tube was stoppered and shaken ten times. The amount of ink in the foam was estimated as none, light, moderate, or heavy. Shampoos that cause the ink to concentrate in the foam are considered poor quality. The dirt should remain in the water portion. Dirt that remains in the foam will be difficult to rinse away and will be redeposited on the hair^13,14.

2.4.5 Measurement of surface tension:

The principle involved in the drop method is described as follows. It is very convenient and quick. In this method, stalagmometer is used. Surface tension measures the strength of the cohesive forces of liquids. For example, water has strong cohesive forces, so surface tension is more. On the other hand, liquids such as benzene have weak cohesive forces and hence, exhibit low surface tension compared to water. Lower the surface tension of the liquid, smaller the size of drops formed. Then more number of drops are formed for the same volume of a liquid. Hence, simply counting the number of drops for an unknown liquid and water is sufficient to calculate surface tension. The above arguments are valid when the densities of liquids are same. Therefore, the falling of drops depends on the weight of the drops. This method is based on the principle that the weight (w) of liquid falling from a capillary tube held vertically is approximately proportional to the surface tension of the liquid^15,16.

2.4.6 Rheological evaluation:

Viscosity of liquid is determined by using capillary viscometer ie., Ostwald viscometer. When a liquid flows through the capillary tube, the time required for the liquid to pass between two marks (A and B) is determined. The time of flow of a liquid under test is compared with the time required for the reference sample of known viscosity (normally water is used)¹⁷.

2.4.7 Percentage of solid contents:

Four grams of formulated shampoo was placed onto a clean, dry evaporating dish. The evaporating dish holding the shampoo was weighed using electronic balance, and the total weight was recorded as W₁. Then, the evaporating dish was placed on the hot air oven at 50°C and was kept until the liquid content was completely evaporated. Finally, the cooled evaporating dish holding the solid content was weighed and recorded as W2.

The percentage (%) of the solid content was calculated as [(W₁-W₂) ÷ W₁] x100^18,19.

2.4.8 Conditioning performance:

Conditioning performances of the formulations were evaluated using the procedure developed by Boonme et al. with some modifications. Female Hair were collected from salon, One of 5g hair mass served as control and another 5g of hair mass was washed with each formulation. Washing solution was prepared by mixing 1 ml of formulation and 50mL of distilled water in a conical flask. Then, the 5g hair mass was put into the flask, shaken for 2 min, rinsed with 100mL distilled water, placed in plastic sheet, and allowed to dry at room temperature. The control hair mass was washed with distilled water only. Finally, the smoothness and softness (i.e., conditioning performance) of the hair mass was estimated by blind touch test methods involving 30 randomly selected volunteering students. The 30 students were blind folded and asked to touch (feel) the hair mass for its smoothness and softness, and rate it as poor, satisfactory, good, and excellent. They also visually inspected the hair mass for its glowing appearance and silkiness²⁰.

3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION:

Now a days many synthetic, herbal, medicated and non-medicated shampoos are available in the market but popularity of herbal shampoo among consumers is on rise because of their belief that these products being of natural origin are safe and free from side effect. We have formulated herbal shampoo which contain bhrinraj, amla, shikakai, reetha and curry leaves. These herbal ingredients are very essential for hair which promote hair growth and stimulates the formulation of new and healthy hair roots, hair cleaning property, and provide conditioning effect.

Table 3. Evaluation Parameters

Parameters	F1	F2	F3
Physical Appearance	Brown and viscous	Brown and viscous	Brown and viscous
Foaming Stability And Ability	5ml and stable for more than 5 min	5ml and stable for more than 5 min	5ml and stable for more than 5 min
pH	6.4 ± 0.5	6.4 ± 0.5	6.4 ± 0.5
Dirt Dispersion	Passes	Passes	Passes
Surface Tension	36.05dy/cc	36.55dy/cc	36.62dy/cc
Rheological Studies	10.75 milipoise	11.902 milipoise	10.42 milipoise
% Of Solid Contents	6.83%	7.14%	6.60%
Conditioning Effect	Passes	Passes	Passes

1. Physical appearance:

The hair preparation as a shampoo should have good appeal and physical appearance. The formulated herbal shampoo were evaluated for physical characteristics such as color and transparency (Table 3). All samples were observed for their physical appearance/ visual inspection, thus having a good physical appearance is important. The physical appearance of the formulated herbal shampoos was brown and viscous, it is more or less similar to the three formulations.

2. Foaming ability:

It is considered to be important parameter as foaming or lathering is very important to the consumer in evaluation of shampoo. Foam production has little to do with cleansing activity in evaluating shampoo. The shampoo showed good foaming properties, the foam produced was 5ml and it was stable for more than 5 minutes for all the three formulated herbal shampoos.

3. pH:

Most shampoos formulated were either neutral or slightly basic. The pH of shampoo helps in minimizing the damage to hair and irritation of the eyes. The formulated shampoos pH found to be acidic, which makes hair smoothen. Cause the cuticle (outer layer) of the hair to shrink and lie flatter on the hair shaft.

4. Dirt dispersion:

The important criteria for evaluation of cleansing action of shampoo. The dirt that stays in foam is difficult to rinse away and gets re-deposited on the hair. For achieving better cleansing action the dirt should remain in water portion.This test revealed that ink was disappeared and test was passed for all the formulated shampoos.

5. Measurement of Surface Tension:

The presence of surfactant in shampoo to reduce surface tension. Stronger the cleansing action lesser the surface tension of shampoo. A proper shampoo should be able to decrease the surface tension of pure water to about 40 dynes/cc it is one of the main mechanisms of detergency. The reduction in surface tension of water from 72.8 dynes/cc to 34 dynes/cc by the herbal shampoos, is an indication of their good detergent action.

6. Rheological evaluation:

Viscosity is the thickness or stickiness of liquid. Product viscosity plays an important role in defining and controlling many attributes such as shelf life stability. Spreadability of shampoo on the hair and viscosity revealed the shampoo was having optimum viscosity.

7. Percentageof Solid Content:

Good shampoos have 20% - 30% solid content, it is easy to be applied and rinse out from the hair.If a shampoo has too many solids, it will be difficult to work it into the hair or wash it out. If it does not have enough solids, it will be too watery and will wash away quickly. The formulated herbal shampoo was found within the range and are expected to wash out easily.

8. Conditioning Effect:

The shampoo’s conditioning performance was based on the mean scores of student referees.On conditioning performance evaluation done by 30 blind folded students, F₃ formulation was concluded to have a better conditioning effect and shinning as compared to F₁ and F₂.

4. CONCULSION:

The aim of this study was to formulate herbal shampoo for better cleaning and conditioning effect. By using plant extracts such as; amla, curry leaves, soapnut, and bhringraj extract for their hair cleansing actions. All the ingredients used in formulation of herbal shampoo were safe. Several tests were performed to evaluate the physicochemical properties. The evaluation of shampoo showed ideal results such as all the formulations having the good physical appearance, pH, viscosity, foaming ability, foaming stability, and conditioning effect. The conditioning performance and shinning of F₃ formulation shows better results when compared to F₁ and F₂ formulation.

5. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

I would like to express my special thanks of gratitude to my Guide, Co-Guide, Faculty Members and Non-teaching staff of Department of Pharmaceutics, Hanagal Shri Kumareshwar College of Pharmacy, Bagalkot who also helped us by providing necessary facilities to carry out my project work.

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Received on 05.09.2022         Modified on 16.12.2022

Accepted on 31.01.2023   ©AandV Publications All Right Reserved

Res.  J. Pharma. Dosage Forms and Tech.2023; 15(2):75-79.

DOI: 10.52711/0975-4377.2023.00013